The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Best Shoes for Rock Climbing

Picking the right shoes for rock climbing is like choosing the right sword for a knight – it can make or break your performance and safety. It’s not just about looks; it’s about the delicate dance between your feet, the holds, and gravity. Choosing the best shoes for rock climbing can be an adventure in itself, but it doesn’t have to be a daunting one.

Rock climbing footwear has evolved significantly from the early days, when climbers often relied on repurposed work boots or canvas sneakers. The first dedicated climbing shoes began to appear in the mid-20th century, with innovations like rubber soles specifically designed for grip and precision. As climbing grew in popularity and the technical demands of the sport increased, shoe design became more specialized, leading to the vast array of options available today. Each design has a purpose – from the relaxed comfort for beginners, to the aggressive downturned shoes used in advanced technical climbs. Understanding this evolution is key to appreciating the importance of selecting the perfect pair for your climbing journey.

Understanding the Different Types of Climbing Shoes

Before we dive into specifics, it’s essential to understand the basic types of climbing shoes available. These generally fall into three categories:

• Neutral shoes: These are your go-to for beginners and for longer routes. They’re designed for comfort and all-around performance. They tend to be flatter and have a less aggressive shape. These shoes prioritize comfort over extreme performance making them great for getting used to climbing movement and longer climbing sessions.
• Moderate shoes: A step up from neutral shoes, moderate shoes offer a balance between comfort and performance. They often have a slight downturned shape to aid in more challenging routes. These are perfect for climbers looking to advance to slightly more demanding climbs while still providing enough comfort for longer climbing sessions.
• Aggressive shoes: These are built for steep and overhanging climbs. They have a strong downturned shape, a tight fit, and often a more asymmetric design for precise footwork. These are the specialist shoes, perfect for more experienced climbers working on technical climbs.

Key Features to Consider

When looking for shoes, pay attention to these key features:

Fit and Comfort

A well-fitted shoe is crucial. They should feel snug, but not painful. Your toes should be touching the end, but not curled up in an uncomfortable position. The fit will differ depending on the type of climbing you will be doing. For example if you’re looking to spend a lot of time on a wall, and you’re using the shoes for top roping, then a more relaxed fit might be ideal. However if you are intending to use them for technical bouldering routes, then a tighter, more precise fit will serve you best. This doesn’t just include the toe box, but also across the width of your foot and through the heal.

Rubber Type

Different types of rubber offer varying levels of grip. Softer rubber is stickier, great for maximum friction but might wear out faster. Harder rubber is more durable, suitable for beginners who are still developing their technique. Consider the type of surfaces you tend to climb, as well as your typical climbing routine to choose rubber that will be ideal for you.

Shoe Shape (Last)

The last is the mold around which the shoe is built. They have varying shapes – flat, downturned, and asymmetrical:

• Flat lasts: Great for beginners and all-day climbing. They offer a comfortable fit that is less taxing.
• Downturned lasts: Aggressive, designed for steep routes where you need to pull yourself up.
• Asymmetrical lasts: These curve towards the big toe, providing precise power for edging on tiny holds.

Closure System

Climbing shoes come with laces, Velcro straps, or slip-on designs:

• Laces: Offer a precise fit that can be adjusted to your foot’s unique shape, though they can be slower to put on and take off.
• Velcro: Quick and easy to adjust, they offer good security, though not as precise as laces.
• Slip-on: Often used for bouldering or indoor climbing, they’re fast to put on, but offer minimal adjustability.

How to Choose the Right Shoes for Your Needs

Choosing the correct shoe depends on your climbing experience, the types of climbing you do, and your personal preferences. Here’s a guide to help you:

For Beginners

Start with neutral shoes. Comfort should be your priority as you develop your technique. A slightly looser fit won’t hurt, especially when you’re learning the ropes. You should aim to find a pair that feels snug, but not painful, and is not so tight that it causes discomfort in any one area. Look for shoes with flat lasts, and consider laces or Velcro for adjustable fit. You might also consider looking for something with a harder rubber.

For Intermediate Climbers

As you progress, explore moderate shoes. These offer a balance of comfort and performance and will help you tackle more challenging routes. You may need to go for shoes that have a slight downturn, and provide support on your forefoot for standing on small holds.

For Advanced Climbers

If you are tackling difficult overhanging routes, you may want to look into aggressive shoes. These shoes are designed to allow you to pull on the wall, often using a downturned toe to aid you. Be aware that these shoes will be more uncomfortable for longer climbing sessions, but they offer the precision that experienced climbers require.

Considering Your Climbing Style

• Bouldering: Aggressive, downturned shoes with sticky rubber are ideal for short, powerful problems.
• Sport Climbing: Moderate to aggressive shoes depending on the steepness and difficulty of the route.
• Trad Climbing: Comfortable, neutral or slightly moderate shoes that provide adequate support for long hours on the wall. You should be looking for shoes that will still be comfortable after hours of climbing.
• Indoor Climbing: Any of the above, based on your skill level and the style of climbing you are practicing.

Tips for Buying Climbing Shoes

• Try Before You Buy: Always try shoes on with climbing socks to gauge fit, if you tend to use them. Walk around, and even mimic a climbing movement to see how the shoe feels.
• Don’t Size Down Too Much: While a snug fit is good, don’t go for something so small it becomes painful. There’s a fine line between a performance fit and a shoe that will cause discomfort and long term issues.
• Consider the Toe Box: Make sure it accommodates the shape of your feet, whether narrow, wide, or bunion. Shoes that fit the shape of your foot correctly will be more comfortable in the long run, and will give you better climbing performance.
• Ask the Pros: Talk to experienced climbers or shop assistants for recommendations on the best shoes for your needs.
• Break Them In: New climbing shoes will take time to break in. Wear them during shorter climbing sessions first.
• Check the Material: Look at not just the rubber on the soles, but the material of the upper shoe as well. Some shoes stretch significantly over time, which is something to consider when you are deciding on the ideal size.

“Choosing the right climbing shoe is like selecting the right paintbrush for an artist. The quality of your work is deeply influenced by the tools you use, and each shoe has a different purpose. Pay attention to the detail.” – Dr. Alan McTavish, Sports Podiatrist

Taking Care of Your Climbing Shoes

Caring for your climbing shoes ensures they perform well and last longer:

• Don’t leave them in your car or direct sunlight: Heat can damage the rubber and adhesives.
• Dry them out: After a climbing session, air them out well to prevent odor and bacteria.
• Clean the rubber: Use a brush and warm water to keep your soles clean and sticky.
• Avoid excessive moisture: Do not soak your shoes for extended periods as this can damage the materials.
• Store them properly: Use a shoe bag to keep them from getting damaged during transport, or when they aren’t in use.

“Regular maintenance is key for any gear, but climbing shoes especially. Proper care makes your shoes last longer, keeps them performing at their best, and saves you from unnecessary expenses. A stitch in time saves nine, they say, and it rings especially true here.” – Evelyn Hayes, Climbing Gear Expert

Knowing how to choose climbing shoes and how to care for them is key for any climbing enthusiast. Choosing the wrong shoes can lead to discomfort, pain, and affect your climbing performance negatively. Selecting a shoe that’s ideal for you, on the other hand, will improve your experience on the wall, and can lead to new climbing milestones.

Choosing the best shoes for rock climbing is a very personal process, and requires care and consideration. By following the guidance provided above, you can choose the perfect shoe for your needs, and enjoy every climb you go on, both indoors and out. Remember, your shoes are an investment in your climbing future so taking the time to learn what suits you best is invaluable. If you find the experience of picking your first pair of climbing shoes challenging, it’s worth noting that there is also the option to rent shoes at a climbing gym if you’re not ready to purchase your own. This will give you a good baseline to determine your style of climbing, and help with your decision of which shoe to invest in when you’re ready. This is something that would benefit beginners especially. Remember that climbing is a journey, and your shoes are one of your most important tools.

If you’re thinking about taking your athletic pursuits to a different level, consider reading up on what shoes to wear for parkour which offers a different set of requirements from footwear.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How often should I replace my climbing shoes?
   • The lifespan depends on the frequency of use and your climbing style, but typically every 6-12 months. Look for signs like worn rubber, lack of support or an ill-fitting shape to help you determine whether it is time to replace them.
2. Can I wear socks with climbing shoes?
   • Yes, you can. Some climbers prefer thin socks for hygiene and comfort, while others go barefoot for a more precise feel. It is a personal preference and depends on the specific shoe, and the type of climbing you’re doing.
3. Do climbing shoes stretch over time?
   • Yes, especially shoes made with leather or synthetic materials. Factor in a small amount of stretch when choosing a size.
4. How do I clean my climbing shoes?
   • Use a brush and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or submerging them completely. Dry them naturally, and avoid direct heat.
5. What is the difference between bouldering and sport climbing shoes?

• Bouldering shoes are often more aggressive with downturned toes to tackle shorter, more powerful routes. Sport climbing shoes vary based on the terrain, and may require a more moderate shoe that prioritises comfort.

6. Should I size down for optimal performance?
   • Sizing down can improve performance, but avoid going too small, as this will lead to discomfort. A snug fit is ideal, but should never be painful.
7. What are some common mistakes to avoid when buying climbing shoes?
   • Ignoring the shoe shape and your foot type, buying a shoe that is too small, and neglecting to break the shoes in are common mistakes. Always try shoes on, get some feedback from an expert or experienced climber, and then break in shoes before attempting longer climbs.
8. How can I improve the performance of my climbing shoes?
   • Proper cleaning and storing, replacing them at the right time, and getting your technique right are important. But, ultimately, the shoe must fit correctly, in order for you to get the optimal performance from them.
9. Are there specific shoes for indoor vs. outdoor climbing?
   • While some shoes work better in one environment than another, it often comes down to climber preference and the style of climbing. There are no hard and fast rules. However, you will find that indoor routes tend to be more predictable and consistent, so you might not need as aggressive a shoe as you might for tackling outdoor routes.